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Ticks can be dangerous for your pet. They attach themselves to an animal (or person) to feed, and as they do, transmit whatever disease they are carrying.

· Prevention is always the best approach. Ticks thrive in areas of thick vegetation, waiting to attach themselves to a target as it walks by. Keep your grass mowed and vegetation neatly cut back. When you walk your dog, keep him out of the underbrush. If you walk in the woods, check for ticks immediately afterward.

· Have a discussion with your Vet. Your Vet can offer advice on effective tick control agents that are available. If Lyme disease is a problem in your area, your Vet may advise vaccinating your dog.

· Check your pet regularly for ticks. Make it a practice to check your pet for ticks as you do your regular grooming. If you find one, don't panic - remove it immediately.

How to Remove a Tick · Don't touch the tick with your fingers. · Using a pair of tweezers, grasp the body of the tick and then pull slowly. · Once the tick is out, check to make sure that the head of the tick has been removed. If it looks like there are "black lines" in your pet's skin, the head is probably still there. If your pet is cooperative, you can try to tweeze it out. If not, you will need to have your veterinarian remove it. You should make sure the head is removed because if left in, it can lead to an infection or abscess. · Once you have removed the tick, drop it in alcohol to kill it or place it in a sealed container and dispose of it in the trash. · If you are unsure about how to remove a tick properly, contact your veterinarian.

Though dogs are the almost-perfect companion, one of their few faults is that their lifespan is just too short. The average age for a medium size dog is about 12-13 years. Giant-breed dogs tend to have shorter lifespans, with Great Danes and Irish Wolfhounds having a life expectancy of only about 8 years old. Small-breed dogs, though, often reach 15 years or more.

Advancing age creeps up on all of us - it just seems to come faster to our canine companion. There are some things we can do to make life easier for our older dogs.

First of all PAY ATTENTION to your dog. As with humans, "old" dogs aren't identified by the number of birthdays. It's more about how well their bodies hold up. Old dogs move slower and stiffer than middle aged dogs. Aged eyes often take on a milky, opaque glaze, which sometimes is related to diminished vision. Lots of odd bumps and nodules may pop up all over the dog 's body. In some breeds, muzzles turn endearingly gray. Old dogs sleep more and snore louder. Old dogs tend to be "set in their ways," and they may become grouchy or stressed if their usual routines are changed. Old dogs are a lot like old people.

Teach your children - and neighbors' children who visit often - to treat your old dog with slow and careful respect. Remind them that "Grandpa Dog" may not see or hear them very well, and he may startle easily, especially if they fall on top of him while he's sound asleep. Warn children that even a gentle dog might lash out and bite if he doesn't know what's happening around him.

You can help your oldster out by modifying his daily routines. Do continue daily walks or some exercise, but let the dog set the pace and length of the walk. The older dog will be more sensitive to cold and extra-hot temperatures, so consider a dog-sweater for winter and shady walking spots for summer. If your dog can no longer jump into the back of your van, you can buy a doggie-ramp so that he can walk up. Going on outings is good therapy for dogs as well as people.

Many old dogs suffer from arthritis. Ask your veterinarian about the multitude of products now available to help ease the pain of stiffened joints. Glucosamine and Chondroitin are diet supplements that are often used to treat people and pets. Medications such as Rimidyl can be very effective under a veterinarian's supervision.

Diet for older dogs is a topic that dog food companies claim needs special attention. Whether or not your senior dog needs a dog food formulated for seniors may depend on whether your dog has any health issues that call for a special diet. Common sense says that if you've fed your dog a good quality food all his life and he's doing well, there's no need to change it as he ages.

Do take good care of your dog's teeth as she ages. Regular brushing with a special toothpaste formulated for dogs (ask for "Pet O Dent" at the dog supply store) will save you a lot of trouble later. If neglected teeth and bad gums need treatment in your vet's office, such dental work will be done under anesthetic, which always presents an increased risk for older dogs.

Whatever you feed your dog, watch out for changes in her appetite or drinking habits. Excessive water intake, refusing to eat, or not being able to keep food down are all symptoms of problems that need immediate veterinary attention.

Do continue regular check-ups with your dog's favorite veterinarian. Many conditions associated with aging, such as cataracts or congestive heart problems, can be treated if they're caught early enough. You might also want to discuss your dog's vaccination schedule with your vet. For many years, it was thought that annual boosters for diseases such as distemper and parvo were necessary for all dogs throughout their lifetime. In recent years, new thinking on immunology suggests that a dog that has been vaccinated regularly in his early years might not need annual boosters. Rabies shots every three years are still required by law, but other immunizations may be more flexible.

The consolation of living with an old dog is that old dogs don't feel sorry for themselves. They don't waste time mourning their lost youth or regretting things in the past. Old dogs don't worry about the future. That's the great nobility of the old dog, content to live each day as it comes, just happy to be with you.

Finding out that your pet has cancer can be devastating news . . . But it need not be a hopeless situation. In fact, cancer in pets is very often a treatable disease, and in many cases curable.

As breakthroughs in human medicine prolong and save the lives of an increasing number of people, veterinary medicine is following in its footsteps. The standard treatments used in people are also being used in animals - surgery, radiation therapy, and chemotherapy. The appropriate treatment depends on the type, aggressiveness, and location of the cancer. And don't be discouraged if you pet is older, because older animals often do just as well, or even better, than younger ones.

The goals in treatment of pets with cancer are the same as for people - to provide long life with good quality, to cure the cancer if possible, and to relieve pain and discomfort in the animal. Your veterinarian can help you make decisions about treatment options, and may refer you to a cancer specialist.

An annual checkup with your veterinarian will help discover problem signs early. However, if you notice any of these red flags, call your vet right away:

Spaying or neutering your dog or cat is beneficial to both you and your pet. It is recommended that the surgery be performed before six months of age or the first heat cycle. Here are some reasons why:

* Your pet's life expectancy is increased and their disposition generally becomes more gentle and affectionate.

* Spaying a female helps prevent uterine infections, such as pyometra, and mammary cancer.

* Neutering a male helps reduce the risk of cancer, prostate disease and hernias.

Reducing the pet overpopulation is beneficial for every community, as hundreds of thousands of cats and dogs are euthanized or suffer as strays every year. Further, anytime a municipality seizes a stray dog or cat, there are expenses involved for sheltering and care, or for euthanizing.

A half-teaspoon of canned pumpkin mixed in with your cat's food once a day can keep hair balls away. The fibre helps cats pass the hair through their system rather than coughing it up on your carpet. And they like the pumpkin taste.

When we hear pets and allergies, we often think of the pet dander that causes allergies in humans. But sometimes pets have allergies, too. And just like humans, those allergies can flare up in the spring.

Signs your furry companion may be suffering from allergies include watery eyes, sneezing, itching, flaky skin and chronic ear infection. Many pet owners suspect their pet's food. But while some pets are allergic to certain foods, only ten percent of dogs and cats have food allergies. Pets can also be allergic to:

* Contact allergens. Some pets are sensitive to soaps, insecticides, wool nylon carpets, grass and even plastic feeding dishes.

Some allergies can be hard to diagnose, so if you think your pet may have an allergy, you should consult your veterinarian. You may also try a food that contains vitamin-rich fish oils, which can help skin rejuvenate and keeps coats shiny.

Good parents want their kids to grow up healthy. Now parents can end kids' itches and "achoos" before they start. A recent study by Henry Ford Health System researchers found children exposed to cats and dogs during their first year of life appear less likely to develop allergies later in life. In addition, research published by Clinical and Experimental Allergy found children who were exposed to pets during their first year were less likely to develop asthma at 12-13 years.

Wait . . . you heard pets cause allergies? That's not always true! The majority of pet allergies among humans result from pet dander, or dead skin cells, not the animal's hair itself. So it you keep dander under control, you will breathe easier in no time. Simply cleaning and vacuuming your house regularly and bathing your pet weekly will keep pet dander under control.

To further reduce pet dander, try feeding your pets a premium food containing vitamin-rich fish oils. It will provide pets with the essential nutrients needed for a healthy skin and coat, therefore less dander and dead skin cells.

"You can't put a sign outside our house that says Judy's Cat House!" I insisted indignantly. My husband David just stood there calmly with a silly grin on his face. "The proper term is Cattery!" I vented. He still just stood there calmly. Feeling a slight giggle rising I added, "I guess we do take in some expectant mothers that have been known to cat around with any tom in the area." We decided not to encourage drop-offs and didn't put up a sign at all.

My first cat rescue was a very skinny, very pregnant, very friendly black female that had taken up residence in the engine compartment of our son's minibus. We brought Shadow inside, prepared a nursery (upstairs bathroom) and she delivered two days later. Save-A-Pet was full. The SPCA wasn't taking cats. I followed Save-A-Pet's vet care protocol and took the kittens and mother to Save-A-Pet's Pick-A-Pet shows until they were adopted. I was an unofficial foster home. Since all of our children are on their own and we have a large house, I became an official foster home.

My first Save-A-Pet charges were "Cs" so Judy's Cat House/Cattery began in year C. We started keeping track of how long our kitties have been with us by assigning them a number and a letter. For example, the first kitty accepted into the Save-A-Pet program in 1995 would be 1A, the first in 1996 would be 1B and so on. I is the letter for 2003 so I have been with Save-A-Pet for 7 years.

We have two upstairs bathrooms that are thick glass tile on top of reinforced concrete. David says these bathrooms are built like bomb shelters. Our house will fall down around them. The floor and walls are tiled to within a foot of the ceiling, making them ideal quarantine rooms.

I can swab them down from stem to stern with bleach solution between occupants. The green bath is The Nursery which houses expectant moms or moms with new litters. The lavender bath is Kitty Kindergarten housing weaned male kittens and male teenagers. A lot of socialization and playtime goes on here. This is also where the kittens discovered they could hide inside the pedestal of our old-fashioned pedestal sink!

3 out of 5 bedrooms have become cat rooms. Cat rooms have food and water dispensers, numerous litter boxes, cat trees, kitty condos, a TV or radio, various boxes to hid or play in, cat toys and at least one comfortable piece of furniture. I talk while cleaning or read out loud so the cats will know my voice. We have to be careful to separate unspayed females and intact males. We certainly do not want to add to the cat over population problem!

The yellow bedroom is our Sunshine Room that houses shy cats and my ten-year-old brothers Rusti and Nicki (affectionately known as "the pisster twins"). I can't bring myself to put R & N down for bad habits so they help teach the shy cats to trust and do limited damage in the Sunshine Room. A medium hair gray cat named Herbie lived here until adopted by someone who wanted a cat that really needed a home. It took his new owners two months to clear up his eyes and he has become a wonderful companion. The back bedroom is the Nine Lives Club where I keep the older cats that do not care for the antics of kittens and a couple of "untouchables" that I adopted when they had been with us for a very long time such as Clara, a.k.a. Miss Hissyspit. A beautiful calico, Clara delivered her kittens in The Nursery. Her kittens have all been adopted. This is a very peaceful room with three windows overlooking the back yard. This is where I like to listen to classical music and cross-stitch (and of course, love the cats).

The Loverly Room is another room at the back of the house with three windows. The name comes from the song in "My Fair Lady" ... all I want is a room somewhere ... with one enormous chair ... oh wouldn't it be loverly. This room houses female kittens and female teenagers. This is where I meditate in the morning and write letters in the evening. It's also a 1/2 way room for moms and older mobile kittens with their eyes open. The nursery has the only tub so moving them allows us to take a bath without worry that kittens will scamper out or get in the tub.

The downstairs bath is our medical quarantine. I transport animals to the vet for foster parents that work. Recently I took Lady Grace and Betty Jean for Judy Northcliffe. Gracie pulled out the stitches from her spay incision and was then stapled. She needed antibiotics. B.J. had an eye ulcer that needed medication. It was easier to keep them in medical quarantine at my house since Judy N. works. Our downstairs bath is now The Northcliffe Medical Ward.

The rest of the house is home to cats ready to be adopted so that they will be interacting in a family situation. There are so many memories. Certain cats liked certain places. Goochie went on top of one curio cabinet, Robert on top of another. Rusti was a high wire enthusiast walking on top of doors and kitchen cupboards until he fell through the kitchen drop ceiling. Maggie likes to sleep in the unplugged heating unit for the crock-pot. Mary Agnes loves to sleep near the warm coffeepot.

There are also 3 No Cat Rooms - our bedroom (because Don Juan would nibble David's nose at 3:00AM, the computer room (too much stuff to risk spraying or cat hair in the computer) and the family room (a place to eat meals in peace).

I think a better name for a sign would be Cat Love Home. There have been a lot of cats that have come and gone through this house in 7 years. Most of them have blessed us by being able to love us back. Most of them have gone on to love and be loved in new homes of their own. A few are still learning to trust. A few have died, very often in my arms. Those I have grieved and will miss. It has been my privilege to love every cat that I have met. Cats help keep my focus off myself. They have filled my life with warmth and joy and unconditional love. So at Save-A-Pet, "Do we save cats and dogs or do they save us?"

The Shelter Dilemma by Judy Kirkpatrick, cat officer

“We are not able to accept any cat surrenders at this time since all of our foster homes are full.”

That is a portion of the Save-A-Pet message that is almost always on my voice mail. Many callers are confused when I am able to answer the call and merely say “Hello?” “Is this Save-A-Pet?” they ask, expecting an actual shelter, office and paid staff. One irate caller asked to speak to my boss when I couldn’t take in her cat! I do not have a boss. I am the boss. The buck stops here. I am accountable to my Board of Directors, but we establish foster home limits together with the best interests of the animals in mind. There is no formal shelter, office or paid staff. The shelter is my home and the homes of other dedicated foster caregivers. The office is a spare bedroom and we are all volunteers. I just haven’t quite been able to bring myself to answer “Save-A-Pet” on my own personal phone, even though 15-30 calls a day are animal rescue related.

Home Fostering: Save-A-Pet is a home fostering shelter. The animals we rescue are sheltered in homes with families. It is a wonderful concept. The animals in our care get used to people. Some get used to kids and other animals. Knowing personalities assists in good adoption placements. But home fostering means limiting animals to 8-10 maximum per household. We have foster caregivers who choose to shelter 1 or 2 cats. It is also hard for our foster caregivers to let go. It is extremely difficult not to become emotionally bonded to cats that have become members of your family. At one Pick-A-Pet show, 5 cats that I had fostered were adopted. I went home and bawled. Yes, I was happy that they had good homes. Yes, I know they need more attention than I could give them. Yes, I know that opened up space to rescue more. But those five had been my intimate companions and I was overwhelmed by how much I missed them.

Quality VS Quantity: Save-A-Pet has decided to make quality care for fewer animals a higher priority than the number of rescues. That makes sense until I have to turn away animals when we are full. Those animals are either left to fend for themselves or surrendered to a shelter that must accept surrenders and therefore must euthanize when the surrenders exceed shelter space. Even shelters that keep their animals in cages and can accommodate greater numbers reach a saturation point where there is not enough space or enough help to care for the animals. We all reach a point where we have to say, “No.” If we don’t, we end up dealing with illness being passed through our animal population and/or the burnout of our volunteers.

No Kill: Save-A-Pet is a no kill shelter. We do not euthanize healthy, adoptable animals. We have euthanized in extraordinary cases such as animals hit by cars because they were in such bad shape and in pain. We rely on our Vets to help us make that determination. The result is that we have animals that are harder to adopt - older cats, toothless cats, one-eyed cats, three-legged cats and terminally shy cats. Unfortunately, since so many people want that perfect young lap cat, some of our cats have been in foster care for a long time. Some are even adopted by their caregivers rather than move them again. When that happens it reduces the number of cats that can be fostered in that home. Case in point: I have two 10-year-old brothers, Rusti & Nikki. In this multicat household, they are know as “The Pisster Twins” because they will not stop marking their territory. So they now live with other seniors in a huge spare bedroom known as “The Nine Lives Club.”

Quarantine Capability: Cats are quarantined when first accepted into the Save-A-Pet program. They are tested for FeLV (feline leukemia) and FIV (feline aids), treated for illness or injury, treated for fleas, ear mites, worms and given shots. I use several spare bedrooms since most foster caregivers do not have a place to quarantine. The animals are kept temporarily in cages and cat playpens. I need to be able to scrub down surfaces with a bleach solution between animals. When ready to return to the general population, they are moved into their new foster home. (Now you know why my friend calls me The Cat Warden.)

A Bottomless Pit: We want to fix the problem of homeless pets. We want to save them all. We do what we can but it never feels like enough. For every cat accepted into the Save-A-Pet program, I am turning away 20. This sense of futility led to addressing some underlying causes of pet overpopulation through spay/neuter assistance and public education. Now I understand what one of our Vets meant when he told a Save-A-Pet rescue, “You’re a lucky kitty.” At least we have made a difference to that one.

You can’t help everybody. But everybody can help somebody. That’s something.

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Why Does My Cat Behave Like This?

Through vocalization and body language, cats try to tell us what they want. Understanding how your cat communicates will help you better understand them.

Head bumping & tail rubbing: With scent glands on their chins, lips, tails and foreheads, cats mark the things they own (including you) with their own scent by rubbing against them.

Kneading: This comforting action reminds your cat of her days as a suckling kitten.

Growling & Hissing: This shows anger, aggression, or fear.

Purring: Purring generally signals extreme satisfaction, but sometimes indicates stress.

Catnapping: Cats sleep twice as much as other mammals - about 16 hours a day on average - but prefer to take little naps all during the day.

Spraying urine: This is another way in which a cat marks territory.

Playing: An important social behavior for kittens, playing helps your cat develop social skills to ensure she grows into a contented, relaxed cat.

... And How Can I Get My Cat to STOP Behaving Like THAT?

Some common behavior problems can be stopped with proper planning. Behavior modification in cats is possible if you use positive reinforcement and patience. Never punish a cat with yelling or hitting - this does not work with cats, and will usually make the problem much worse.

Jumping on counters and furniture: Cats enjoy resting on elevated places, especially windowsills and ledges where they can see outside. · Establish acceptable elevated spots for your cat. Give positive reinforcement for using these spots. · If your cat uses unacceptable spots, remove her from that area and place her in one of the acceptable areas.

Scratching furniture: Cats scratch with their claws as part of grooming and to mark their territory. · Train your cat right from the start to use a scratching post. Hold her near the post and show her how to scratch her paws on it. Give praise when she uses it.

Urinating outside the litter box: · Your cat will resist using a litter box if it is not kept clean, so be sure to scoop and clean it out regularly. · An unneutered male will spray to mark his territory. Neutering usually solves the problem. · Check with your Vet to see if there is a medical reason, such as a urinary tract infection.

Body Language of Cats - a quick lesson

Raised tail = confident, excited Limp tail = Relaxed Ears slightly turned forward = Friendly, playful Ears slightly laid back = Afraid or angry Pupils dilated = Anxious, afraid Averted eyes and/or lying with belly face-up = Submissive Lying low, ready to pounce = Aggressive Hair raised = Trying to look intimidating

The "Rattle Can" Distraction

Rather than punishing undesirable behavior, distract your cat and interrupt the behavior with a rattle can. Fill an empty soda can with 10 pennies, and tape it completely to seal it shut and cover any sharp edges. When you see your cat engage in an inappropriate behavior, shake or toss the can near - not at - her. The noise will startle and distract her from the unwanted behavior. Follow up by giving her one of her favorite toys. With consistent repetition, she'll learn that certain behaviors produce loud, disturbing noises.

Getting a Dog?? Buyer Beware By Chris Halvorson

In recent years, Save-A-Pet's volunteers have noticed a big change in the surplus dog situation in this area. When SAP started more than 25 years ago, dogs were our major concern. We had a constant stream of unwanted puppies needing placement, and every one of our Pick A Pet shows featured a pen of pups.

Then a wonderful thing happened: the public education campaign for SPAY/NEUTER YOUR PET started to show its effects. We noticed a decrease in the number of puppies we were asked to place. People calling us to inquire if we had pups available often reported that all the local animal shelters they'd checked had no puppies. The balance has shifted, and now the demand for puppies exceeds the supply.

So if you want a good puppy, or perhaps a puppy companion for your current dog, how do you find one? If you've checked with SAP and the local animal shelters, and none of us has a puppy for you, we'll ask you to consider adopting an older dog. Most shelters and groups like Save-A-Pet often have older, less cutesy dogs waiting for a good home. Though these dogs may lack a puppy's charm, but they also often lack puppy problems, such as an innocent ignorance of housebreaking and no-chewing rules. Many people who think they want a puppy would actually be better off with an older dog.

If you're thinking of getting a purebred dog, we urge you to buy from a reputable breeder. You might refer to a previous article, "Buying a Purebred Pup," which you can find in the Archives section. But if you're desperately looking for a good puppy of any mix of breeds, be aware that the current shortage of puppies has led to an increase of disreputable breeders who want to sell you a dog, any dog, at the highest possible price.

Check the Classified Ads in the newspaper for dogs. Some years ago, mixed breed puppies were advertised "free to a good home." Then when the public became more aware of proper veterinary procedures, ads offered mixed breed pups for $50 or so, which supposedly covered the cost of a pup's first shots and vet check. But now, you'll find ads offering mixed breed puppies for $100-200, with owners seeking to make on profit. Some people are deliberately mixing breeds and selling them at even higher prices as novelty "breeds" such as "Labra-doodles." Dogs that some years ago were just called "mutts" are now being deliberately produced to satisfy the demand for puppies.

But if the mixed-breed pup you want to buy is adorable, and you're willing to pay the asking price, there shouldn't be any problem with that, right? We suggest you make your decision based on the person who is selling you the pup. If that seller places the welfare of his puppy above its price tag, then that seller will be questioning you carefully before reaching for your money. The seller should be concerned about what kind of home you can offer the pup: do you have other pets or young children; experience with training; a fenced yard, rent or own your home? All those questions are a good sign. Chances are that a puppy that is carefully sold has been well cared for from the earliest days of its life.

If the puppy seller doesn't interview you carefully, that's a tip he just wants your money and doesn't care what you do to his puppy (that unknown future is why reputable breeders never sell puppies to pet shops for resale). Even worse is the seller who won't let you see the littermates or mother of the pups . You should be wondering what kind of temperament and physical problems may be kept hidden. The seller may tell you that the puppy has had its shots and a vet check. What he doesn't tell you is that the parents of the pup probably haven't been screened for inheritable problems -- such as hip dysplasia, seizures, deafness, eye defects or heart problems -- which would be standard practice for a carefully-bred dog. If you fall in love with the pup and buy it even though you may not trust the breeder, you take your chances. If the puppy has health or behavior problems, don't be surprised if the breeder doesn't return your phone calls.

Most people would avoid buying a dog from a "puppy mill." Thanks to a lot of media attention, we know that puppy mills are large, for-profit breeding operations that maximize their profits by giving minimal care and concern to multiple breeding animals. Images of matted dogs living in filth-filled chicken-wire cages have helped show us just how bad these places can be. Most large commercial pet stores get the puppies they sell from puppy mills, often having truckloads of pups shipped in from the prairie states.

So it might surprise you that even eastern Niagara County has puppy mills. If you're tempted to buy a pup from a seller who is as careless as those described above; and if that seller has litters of various breeds available, watch out. And if the seller seems to have a lot of dogs hidden away on the "back forty," you might buy a puppy out of pity and end up with heartache.

If all this is discouraging, and you decide to look harder to adopt a homeless dog rather than buying a puppy, you still need to be careful that you adopt from a reputable organization. Recently Save-A-Pet has received several complaints about a local woman who claims she is an dog lover who rescues dogs from a local shelter and then adopts the dogs out. Her adoption fee is $200, and dogs are not spayed or neutered before adoption. This individual is NOT associated with Save-A-Pet. Though such individuals may mean well, we urge you to adopt from a legally incorporated rescue group or shelter. Our volunteers have worked long and hard to establish a good reputation and procedures which safeguard the adopter as well as the dog that's adopted.

If you want to buy a good dog, it may mean that you have to search a while and be patient to find the dog for you. It might mean that you broaden your search to include dogs that are older and bigger than you're original expectations. The world is full of good dogs - sometimes you just have to let the right dog find you.

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Pet Safety Tips For Kids - By Chris Halvorson

We all assume that kids and pets go together naturally, especially if we live in a family where this has always been the case. But the truth is, not all dogs and cats are accustomed to children. Kids can seem frightening, threatening, or just plain "strange" to some pets. Little kids move fast, and they have high, shrill voices that can trigger prey or flight instincts in animals. So its up to parents to teach their children how to properly make the acquaintance of new animals, as well as how to respect the family pets.

"May I pet your dog?"

Teaching a child to ask the permission of a dog's owner before rushing in to meet a new dog is more than good manners ---- it's a basic safety rule. Have your child practice the phrase, "May I pet your dog, please?" to use upon meeting someone walking a dog. Remember, some dogs are wary of strangers, and will not welcome up-close-and-personal greetings. Any time you meet a new dog that's with his owner, ALWAYS give that owner the chance to give the okay on greetings.

If the dog's owner assures you that the dog is friendly, be sure to teach your children the proper way to approach a new dogs. That means the child is to walk (NOT run) up to the dog. Then the child should hold out a hand for the dog to sniff. When the dog wags tail and gives friendly body language, then the child can pet the dog. Even so, teach a child never to put his face right up to a dog's face, and never to try to hug a new dog, no matter how cute and fluffy it looks. Just like humans, dogs have their "space" that has to be respected while you're in the getting acquainted stage.

"Stand like a tree."

That's what the American Humane Society wants parents to teach their children to do if approached by a dog that's running around with no owner in control. The child should stand as tall and still as a tree, with arms hanging straight down along the sides of the body. The child should not shout at, talk to, or even look at the dog. The idea is that by being unthreatening and uninteresting to the dog, the child becomes part of the landscape. Most dogs will just sniff and move along.

Children have to understand that running away, screaming, or striking out at the dog are the WORST things to do when approached by a scary dog. . Dogs run faster than people, and fleeing kicks in the dog's prey drive -that is, the instinct to chase. Screaming or shouting at the dog has the same effect, and striking out at a possibly aggressive dog just incites it to attack. So, "Stand like a tree" may well be the best advice you can give your child for avoiding attacks by strange dogs.

"I want to be alone now!"

Even family pets that get along fine with children often need some time and space alone from the noise and activity of kids (parents can understand this, right?). Parents should teach their children that when the family cat or dog runs away and hides under the bed or in a crate, that pet is saying, "I want to be alone now." Many cases of dog bites or cat scratches happen when someone forces attention on a pet that's trying to avoid it, so remind your child that no one, pet or people, likes being pestered when they're feeling tired or grouchy.

Getting along with pets is often easier than getting along with people, but in both cases, its good to learn the basics when we're still children.

Dog Training, Mom’s Way By Chris Halvorson

There’s no big secret to dog training. In fact, if you’ve managed to teach your children some reasonable manners and house rules, you can use some of the same techniques to train a dog. Why then do some folks seem to have so much trouble controlling their canines?

Save-A-Pet’s volunteers see a lot of common mistakes that owners make with their dogs. We’ll divide them into three common results: The Spoiled Brat; The Dog School Drop-Out; and The Out-of-Control Beast.

The Brat

The Spoiled Brat dog starts out as an adorable, fluffy puppy. His owners love him to bits, give him lots of cuddling and tidbits, and let him do what he wants since he’s too cute and too little to punish. He’s just a baby, after all.

In about six months, Little Cutie has turned into 50 pounds of Muscle on a Leash. He barks too much, growls if provoked, maybe even snaps; sleeps on too much of his owner’s bed; steals food from kitchen counters, and raids the garbage cans. His owner’s protests are totally ignored. The Spoiled Cutie has turned into a Spoiled Teen-Aged Brat. The owner hopes he will “out-grow” these bad habits. Truth is, he’ll only get worse unless someone asserts control.

Author Carol Lea Benjamin’s classic book on puppy training is called Mother Knows Best (available from Amazon.com). The “Mother” referred to is the puppy’s dam, and Benjamin makes a strong case that we can learn a lot by watching how a mother dog disciplines her pups through some basic rules of puppy etiquette –no babying is involved. The point is that pups start to learn from their earliest days, and owners can and should be shaping their behavior. Owners who somehow missed this often resort to the next step, Obedience School, as a cure-all. This should help, but all too often we hear complaints about:

The Obedience School Drop-Out

“My dog went to obedience school¼.and he flunked.” Owners sometimes tell us this with a laugh, and sometimes with a helpless shrug. What can you do with an untrainable dog? they seem to say.

We have a different spin on this. We’d say the OWNER is the one who failed to get the message of obedience school. A six-week course in basic obedience is kindergarten. How many parents think their child is totally educated after kindergarten? Yet dog owners often don’t get the idea that obedience classes are just the start of a life-long relationship in which the owner is the “parent” and the dog the “student.” The main lessons of dog school are to teach the owner how to teach the dog. How long it actually takes to teach the basics varies — and some dogs take lots of patient repetition. But if obedience school didn’t “take,” it’s time to look for another school or dog trainer who can help prevent the worst case scenario of:

“We have to get rid of the dog since we just can’t handle him” is one of the saddest reasons people surrender dogs to shelters. “He’s just too much for us,” or “We can’t make him stop doing [fill in bad behavior]” they say, as if it’s the dog’s fault.

What this means is that the owner isn’t using the tools needed to control the dog. For instance, people sometimes tell us they want to give up a puppy or young dog since they can’t housebreak him or he’s chewing everything he can reach in the house.

“Are you keeping him in a crate when you can’t watch him?” we always ask. The answer is usually a horrified, “No, that would be too cruel!” So then we ask, “If you have a toddler in your household, do you give him the run of the house when you can’t supervise?” It never occurs to them that a puppy is just like a human baby in that you can’t give total freedom and expect him to stay out of trouble. In dog terms, a crate is like a baby’s crib or playpen — it’s a safe place to confine a baby until he knows a bit more.

Many trainers and parents believe the best way to shape behavior is with totally positive reinforcements. In parenting, kids are given lots of praise and incentives to good behavior such as payment for good grades and doing chores. In dog training, praise and dog treats encourage desired behaviors, while inappropriate behaviors are ignored or mildly disapproved. In recent years, “clicker training” for dogs takes this into sophisticated levels of shaping behavior with a little “clicker gadget” that signals an act that will be rewarded with a food treat. This can work well for someone with good hands, timing, and understanding of the theory.

Other teachers, be they parents or dog trainers, believe there’s a place for “negative reinforcement” – meaning punishment or stronger ways to signal NO! for bad behavior. Most parents know there’s a time to take a stand and enforce rules, or else your children will ignore you. With dogs, using tools that apply pressure — such as a prong collar to stop pulling, or stronger body posture and voice for corrections — can solve major problems. If a 100-pound jockey can control a half-ton Thoroughbred by using the right equipment and techniques, there’s no reason why even a small person can’t control a strong dog.

The best training tool we have is our brains, and most of us like to think we’re smarter than our dogs. Use the advice often given to parents: Be firm. Be consistent. Be patient. And it doesn’t hurt do what Carol Lea Benjamin suggests in Mother Knows Best: Learn to think like a dog.

Let’s face it — the notion that you really should pay more attention to your pet’s grooming is easy to forget in the press of all your other daily chores. Fortunately, the pet supply industry is booming with products to make pet care easier, and even things you already have around the house can be useful. Whether you’re willing to make an investment in grooming gadgets or just use some good sense, caring for your pet on a regular basis will help avoid future problems caused by neglect.

Starting up front at your pet’s ears, take a peek inside to check that they’re pink and clean. Keep them that way by regular cleaning. One easy way is just to wipe them with a cotton swab dipped in baby oil, then dry them with a tissue. We prefer to use a commercial liquid ear cleaner such as “R-7 Ear Cleaner” or “Earoxide.” (See the end of this article for “where to buy” info on some of the products mentioned here.) These liquids can be can be squirted into the ear and then rubbed around with a cotton pad (such as a make-up remover pad). You’ll be surprised how much wax and debris comes off on the pad. Don’t use “cue-tip” cleaners that might puncture the eardrum, and rubbing alcohol or peroxide is too harsh. Hounds or spaniel-type dogs with long, hanging ears are most prone to ear infections, so checking and cleaning ears frequently should be a priority.

Both your dog and your cat should have regular dental care to prevent the build up of plague that causes gum disease and tooth infections. If you neglect this care, your veterinarian may suggest a professional cleaning, which is generally done under anesthetic. You can avoid this by regular tooth cleaning with products made just for dogs and cats. We use “Petrodex” tooth paste for dogs and cats since our pets like the taste. Instead of a toothbrush, try using a “finger toothbrush,” a little nubby plastic thing you slip over your finger and use to rub your pet’s teeth — it’s easy. Don’t use toothpaste made for people on your pet — it can cause upset stomachs.

Nail and foot care can be touchy. If you start clipping your pet’s toenails at a young age, you’re more likely to have success even when the pet gets bigger and stronger. Pet nail clippers come in either the “scissors” style or “guillotine” style, and come in sizes from small to heavy duty. Be sure to have some “Kwik Stop” powder or gel on hand. This product will instantly stop the bleeding that results if you inadvertently clip the nail so short that it bleeds. Some pets who object strenuously to nail clipping don’t seem to mind nail grinding at all. You can buy electric nail grinders such as the “Dremel” brand for about $70.

Clipping the hair inside a pet’s footpads is also a good idea. Kitty litter stuck in the hair inside a cat’s paws gets tracked through the house. Hair between your dog’s toes collects mud and snow clumps. So trimming between those toes with a small blunt scissors or an electric pet clipper will save you some mess later.

If you have a long-haired dog whose romps in the snowy outdoors leave him with globs of wet snow sticking to his leg hair, use warm water to quickly “defrost” him. If you can get him to jump into your bathtub, just run some warm water over his legs, and the snow will disappear quickly, and you can towel him dry before he runs through the house. If getting the dog into the tub is a problem, wipe him with towel that been dipped in hot water. Keep half of that towel dry, and use that to finish the job.

If pets are walked outdoors on winter streets or roads that have been salted, be sure to wash and dry their feet thoroughly. Instead of using a typical “salt” snow melting product on your sidewalk, you can buy products formulated NOT to hurt pets’ feet. Or try using kitty litter on your driveway for traction if you don’t want to expose your pet to chemicals.

Year-round coat care of your pet depends largely on the type of hair involved. Short-hair dogs and cats can be groomed weekly with a soft rubber brush or a hand mitt. Long-hair pets require daily grooming to avoid mats and tangles. Use a long-tooth metal comb and a stiff wire brush to brush the coat “backwards” to make it fluffy. Once you’ve used a good-quality comb or brush purchased from a pet-supply business, you’ll probably never bother with a cheaper tool from the supermarket or general discount store.

Double-coated dogs (those with a stiff outer coat and a softer undercoat) can be the worst shedders and most untidy looking. A new grooming tool called a “Coat King” is a favorite for quickly and easily removing the “dead” undercoat. If you have a fluffy terrier-type dog or a spaniel or retriever, the Coat King stripper can help you avoid more expensive professional grooming that will be needed if the coat gets too unruly.

Frequent bathing of most cats and dogs isn’t recommended since it can dry out their skin too much. Cats are often “self-cleaners” who use their tongues to keep themselves clean. Many dogs have coats thick enough to keep dirt off the skin, so brushing out the coat is all that’s needed.

If your pet needs a quick cleaning, try a “dry shampoo” product between bathings. If your pet gets gum, tar, or other sticky substances into his coat, try rubbing it out with mineral oil. For paint in the coat, wash with warm water and soap. Do NOT use paint remover, kerosene, or gasoline. If all else fails, cut the substance out with scissors (the hair will grow back).

A little time and money invested in pet care pays off with a healthier, happier pet and a cleaner house. And for you, don’t underestimate the stress-reducing therapy of hands-on sessions with your pet.

Check your local pet supply stores, such as Pet Smart, for some of the items mentioned here.

Care-A-Lot Pet Warehouse www.carealotpets.com and www.groomersmall.com (the best source for the “Coat King” tool mentioned above).

Don is delightfully needy. Unlike many males, he enjoys ... no, enjoys isn't the right word, he craves cuddling and closeness almost like it's an addiction. In bed at night he stretches out so that the maximum amount of his body is next to mine. I certainly appreciate affection but sometimes would prefer to be merely popular and not the rage. Don also has this slightly kinky habit of diving under the covers and nibbling on my toes. He became annoyingly needy the night he nibbled on my husband David's nose at 3:00 am. Don Juan, the excessively loving brown tiger cat was banished from the bedroom that was promptly declared a "No Cat Room."!

Being a Save-A-Pet caregiver has meant living with other passionate brunettes and blondes and redheads ... also blacks, whites, grays, calicos and torties. Each one is incorporated into the household as a member of the family. Each one finds its own niche -- a favorite place to nap and a favorite time to get a share of their foster mom's and dad's affection.

Ranger is my shadow. He heels like a dog following me everywhere rubbing against my leg. From him I learned the "Save-A-Pet Shuffle" so I wouldn't step on him.

Vera is my water girl. As soon as she hears water running she is there on the counter or poised carefully on the divider of the double sink caressing my arms and making it exceedingly difficult to do dishes.

Then there's little Mary Agnes, probably separated from her mother at too young an age. As soon as I sit down Mary Agnes in up on my shoulder kneading furiously and nuzzling my neck. Underweight Mary Agnes is given a small amount of canned food each morning in a carrier so that the other cats won't steal her food. The only hiccup is that when I'm taking another kitty to the vet, I have to extract Mary Agnes from the carrier where she is expecting a treat.

The real action begins when David and I sit down to read the paper or watch the news. Mr. Wilson sits on David's paper. Nikki cuddles in the crook of my left arm (always the left). The left arm of the recliner belongs to Mother Cat, the right to Phantom. Twig and Alice prefer legs. Murray, NiteNite and Petey are chest sitters. Maude, Millie and Ellie prefer laps. Poppie sits at my right and taps my arm with his paw for attention. When a Save-A-Pet kitty joins the ranks of living room lovers, we know that cat is ready for adoption. Sure enough, any especially sweet kitties that I call "therapy cats" usually find homes soon. Another cat needing TLC soon fills the empty spot on lap or chair.

If you would like a passionate brunette (or blonde or redhead) in your life, give Save-A-Pet a call!

Halloween: Furry Style

Many pet owners like to include their dog or cat in their Halloween celebrations, and pets enjoy being part of the family festivities. Sadly, however, many owners do their four-legged friends a great disservice by dressing them in uncomfortable costumes or giving them rich, non-nutritional treats. Here are some tips for pet owners to make the night a safe and happy occasion for everyone involved – doggy & kitty included.

-- Don’t give your pet candy – keep it out of reach. Chocolate can be especially toxic to pets.

-- Instead of candy, have some nutritional treats, made for pets, on hand to give them.

-- Don’t let your pet get into empty candy wrappers. If ingested, they can upset tummies, or even cause cuts.

-- If you have an outdoor pet, consider bringing him in for the night – some trick or treaters can take mischief too far and, unfortunately, animals make easy targets.

-- Do you have a nervous or aggressive dog? If so, keep her away from the trick or treaters at the door to ensure she doesn’t slip out or get scared by the unusual visitors.

-- If you take your pet trick-or-treating, make sure she’s on a leash. Even the tamest, best-trained pets can get excited during the Halloween commotion.

Simple Costume Ideas

If the idea of dressing up your pet is simply too irresistible, choose one that doesn’t restrict movement or hamper vision. Simple ones are best – here’s a few suggestions:

1. Super Pet: Make your pet a hero by donning a short, lightweight cape attached to his collar.

2. Furry Angel: Use pipe cleaners to fashion a small halo – then attach to her collar with two

more pipe cleaners.

3. Cat-bat or Puppy-vampire: Cut bat wings from felt and sew the ends onto a collar.

“What’s in a name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” - -- William Shakespeare

I am a very ordinary person with the unmitigated gall to question the immortal bard. What’s in a name? Names are important. Parents give months of thought about what to name their forthcoming child. Some parents name as a reflection of themselves. For example, environmentalists may name children River and Leaf. I was not going to encumber a son with Junior until my husband David was in Vietnam when our first child was born. Suddenly it was very important to me to name this child David William Kirkpatrick, Jr. After all, David Sr. might not return and this child was piece of him and our mutual love. I teased our son that if he had been a girl, the feminine of David William was Davida Wilhelmina. (My need was not that great.)

Some people name children with a vision for that child’s future in mind. Children are named for people that are admired. Martin Luther King is now better known than the man he was named after. Biblical names reflect religious heritage. Sarah speaks of steadfast faith and traditional values. Cultural names reflect success. How many girls have been named after Brittany Spears?

Some people name for the essence of the child. I know folks who have abandoned selected names when the long awaited baby arrived because when they saw the child, “It just didn’t fit.”

Knowing someone’s name is evidence of a relationship. Being invited to use a first name is an invitation to intimacy. People warn, “Don’t give that stray a name or it’s yours!” We can no longer remain impersonal when we know the name.

Naming pets deserves thoughtful consideration as well. Pets are often named for appearance. Black cats become Midnight and Shadow. Longhaired cats become Fluffy or Lady Godiva. A black and white cat was named Moo Moo. Pets are also named for physical characteristics. Six-toed cats become Mittens, the largest kitten becomes Bruiser and the littlest is called Runt. Bette Davis was named for her big, beautiful eyes.

Care needs to be taken that a name will “grow” with the animal. An awkward kitten named Spaz grew up to be lithe with fluid movements. A gorgeous black and white tuxedo cat was surrendered with the name Blinky. We called him Benson.

Care also needs to be taken that a name does not contain negative meanings which might affect our attitude. We wouldn’t name a child Stupid or Obnoxious. Bruiser was a gentle, loving male. We called him Brady Spats O’Shay. Just keep in mind that with a longer name such as Danny Boy Boots Malone or Leigh’s Cliftonpoint Sassafras, you will want to use a shorter version as a call name.

Some animals are named for who they are. Mother Cat will always be Mother Cat. She is the Alpha Cat in my house, a regal matriarch. Sixteen years old, she eats first. Upstart kittens quickly learn to wait after a gentle swipe from Mother Cat. Save-A-Pet calls calm, gentle, soothing cats “therapy cats”. Some of our therapy cats were Harmony, Serenity, Cashmere.

We have had fun with groups of two (Rhett & Scarlett, Adam & Eve) and three (Tom, Dick & Harry; Faith, Hope & Charity; Winken, Blinken & Nod). However, after Winken and Blinken were adopted, we had to explain why the remaining kitten was named Nod.

Many of our strays are named to help us remember their story. Timber and Twig were found on Plank Road. The “flower shop kittens” are Violet, Daisy and Lily and their mom is Posie. Leda was named for the human consort to Zeus as a swan. Leda is white. Swans are white and she was found on Leete Road. (I know that’s a stretch!)

Whatever you name your beloved pet, give them more than food, water and shelter. Give them your time and your love. They will reward you with so much in return that your heart will overflow. Less expensive than a psychiatrist, the ultimate relaxation response, pets can lower our blood pressure and calm frazzled nerves. A connection with the divine, animals help us to regain a childlike uncomplicated innocence and a sense of pure joy.

Suggesting a crate for a just-adopted dog or puppy is part of our standard advice to new owners. Sometimes we get a horrified or stubborn look in response —both reactions are translated to “Oh, I’d NEVER lock up this darling dog in a cage! That’s like keeping him in prison.”

Then it's time to do some crate training. Crate training involves teaching a human how using a dog crate will help make it through the trying times of a dog’s life. Judging by all the dogs surrendered to shelters due to destructive behavior, learning about crates could be lifesaving information.

Ever notice how dogs like to curl up under tables or beds? Dogs instinctively seek out dark, safe, enclosed places for resting spots. This is emphasized in the wild where wolves and coyotes sleep in caves or holes. Keeping a crate in your house offers the dog a quiet, safe den of his own. If the crate is introduced and used properly, most dogs will think of it that way.

You have some choices when choosing a crate. The solid plastic “airline” crates give the dog the most secure “den” feeling. All-wire collapsible crates are handier for traveling or storing. You care give the dog added security by covering the wire crate’s top and or sides with a sheet or blanket. Lightweight mesh crates are nice if your dog is very crate compliant, however a determined chewer can make a mess out of mesh.

A crate should be big enough for the adult dog to stand in and turn around in. If you want to buy your puppy a crate big enough for him to grow into, place a box with a blanket in one corner of the crate to make a bed for him to curl up in.

Where to put the crate also takes some planning. A quiet corner of a room you spend a lot of time in is ideal. Keeping the crate in the bedroom will be extra reassuring for the young puppy at night. Don’t put the crate in an isolated part of your home, such as the basement, garage or unused room. Being totally separated from his family goes against the dog’s strong pack instinct to be near you.

The crate should be a cozy place for your pup. Give him something soft to lie on and throw in a chew toy. When introducing the dog to the crate, toss in a biscuit and cheerfully use a command: “Go crate!” Leave the door open so the dog can freely go in and out. Some people feed the dog dinner in the crate so it’s associated with the best time of the day — chow time.

Introduce the idea that you will sometimes close the crate door and leave the dog. Many dogs protest this idea. Ignore your dog’s whining and scratching. If you release him when he makes a fuss, then he’s trained you to follow his commands. The dog that makes a lot of continuing “Let me out of here!” noise should be reprimanded. A good loud smack from an empty plastic pop bottle on the top of the crate will often startle a dog into silence. Praise the silence with a “good boy.” Let the dog out only when he’s stopped asking to be let out.

Never angrily lock your dog in his crate as punishment. The concept of depriving a dog of his freedom as a consequence of unrelated bad behavior is too abstract for the canine mind.

A crate is your best tool for quick and easy housebreaking. Dogs don’t like to soil their sleeping quarters, so your pup will instinctively wait till he’s outside of his crate to do his potty business.

You still need to pay attention to his routine of eating, sleeping, waking: quick, potty! in order to get him outdoors on time. You’ll need to praise him when he uses the right spot and blame yourself if you don’t get him there in time.

And you should have a reasonable idea of the holding capacity of puppy bladders. One rule of thumb says a pup should never be crated more than one hour more than its age in months. For instance, a two month old pup could be crated for three daytime hours, a six month old pup shouldn’t be crated for much more than that. However, a well exercised, soundly sleeping young pup should make it through the night by the time he’s two months old.

Older pups and dogs can be crated for longer periods of time, within reason (not twelve hour days, please!) We suggest hanging a water bucket from the side of his crate and leaving the TV or radio on for company.

We’re amazed by how many people expect to give their pups “the run of the house.” We ask them, “Would you leave a three year old infant home alone?” The answer is always “Of course not.” An unattended and bored young dog can get in just as much trouble and danger as a child left on its own. It’s safer to keep a dog crated until you know he can be trusted with more freedom. Or would you rather have your furniture and flooring chewed?

Puppy chewing behavior is often associated with teething, so giving the pup a lot of hard, safe dog toys will help. Eventually most pups grow out of the chewing stage, which means you can start leaving the crate door open when you’re not home.

Chewing is also associated with boredom. Give your dog lots of exercise and attention, and he’ll be more inclined to spend his alone time napping.

When you’ve reached the point when the dog doesn’t need to be crated anymore, you might want to put the crate into storage. When your dog has earned the privilege of having the run of the house, you’re also giving him the opportunity to be a more effective watchdog. Many people still keep the open crate in its usual spot, however. If your dog is accustomed to taking naps and meals in the crate, he’ll claim it as his spot even if you don’t ask him to use it anymore.

Crates are also great for traveling with your dog. Even motels that accept pets in their rooms will want you to crate your dog when you leave him alone in the room when you’re out to dinner. Also, if you have a van or SUV that has space for a crate in the back, that’s the safest place for a dog to travel. Many a dog has survived a car crash because he was securely riding in a crate.

There are also some alternatives to crates you might consider for really big dogs, or if you must leave the dog alone for long periods.

Free-standing “exercise pens” (also called “x-pens) can be set up in a spare room. These give the dog room to move around and sprawl. You can also use baby gates to block in a “dog proofed” room.

You can find a good selection of basic crates at big pet supply stores such as Pet Smart or Pet Wise. Discount stores such as Wal-Mart will also carry some crates. Yard sales are a good spot to pick up used crates at bargain prices.

For a full array of crates, x-pens, and accessories, plus competitive pricing, shop on-line. There are lots of sites for pet supplies. Our favorites include www.carealotpets.com and www.jbpet.com .

“Oh, I feel so bloated!” is a standard line in TV commercials, followed by grins and recommendations for products that reduce intestinal gas. But though people can simply have uncomfortable stomach gas, its no joking matter in dogs. In fact, it’s a potentially fatal problem every dog owner should be aware of.

Over 60,000 dogs DIE every year from canine bloat, which is formally referred to as “gastric dilatation-volvulus,” sometimes also called “GDV.” We’ll call it bloat. Bloat occurs when a dog’s stomach fills with excessive gas. The gas pressure builds, causing the stomach to become distended. This step in the sequence is called “gastric dilatation.” This is common in young puppies that eat rapidly and are active at mealtimes. However, usually the pups can rid themselves of the gas by belching. This condition isn’t life-threatening.

However, in adult dogs, most especially in large, deep-chested dogs, belching doesn’t relieve the problem. The next critical step happens when dog’s distended stomach actually twists on its axis –the term “volvulus” refers to this. The rotation of the stomach also twists blood vessels. This prevents blood circulation to the stomach. Cells in the stomach and spleen die rapidly. Circulation to the rest of the body is compromised. The dog’s heartbeat becomes irregular, breathing becomes difficult. Pain causes shock, with toxins from dead tissue making it worse. Coma and death will follow. All this can happen in as little as two or three hours.

You need to recognize the earliest signs of bloat because immediate veterinary care is the only way to save your dog’s life. Your dog may first seem restless and uncomfortable. He may salivate and try unsuccessfully to vomit. The dog’s belly begins to swell, and it seems very sensitive and painful.

RUSH your dog to the veterinarian or emergency clinic if you see this happening. In some early cases of bloat, the vet may be able to rotate the stomach and reduce internal gas pressure. More commonly, emergency surgery is required in order for the veterinarian to open the abdomen and untwist the stomach. If major internal damage hasn’t yet occurred, the repair involves correcting the position of the stomach, and in some cases, surgically “tacking” the stomach to the abdomen wall so that it will not twist again.

Obviously, it would better to prevent bloat from happening in the first place. Much time and study has been invested in trying to figure out what causes bloat and how to prevent it. The conclusions are still more fragmentary than definite.

We know that bloat most affects large dogs with deep chests. It affects more males than females, and older dogs more than pups. Aggressive, nervous, or high-anxiety dogs seem to be more susceptible to bloat than happy, well-adjusted dogs. Many studies have tried to link diet with bloat, but results are inconclusive. Most experts agree that feeding large amounts of dry dog food, then allowing a dog to “tank up” on water is foolish. Its better to moisten the kibble to expand it before it gets into the dog’s stomach, rather than have the expansion happen while in the stomach. Mixing a small amount of canned food with dry is better than feeding all canned or all dry food. Feeding two or three smaller meals per day rather than one large meal is also advised. Restricting your dog’s activity after meals is very important. Save the exercise sessions until after food is well-digested.

It’s generally agreed that how a dog eats can be as important as what he eats. Gulping air along with food may lead to bloat, so slowing the “chow hound” who wolfs down dinner is a wise goal. For example, if your dog eats so enthusiastically he bangs his bowl around, give him a stationary feeder. If you have several dogs, separate them at mealtimes so they aren’t competitive eaters. Make your dog eat slower by feeding out of muffin tins or putting large rocks or tennis balls into the food dish. This forces him to pick out food more carefully.

Taking some preventative measures and keeping a watchful eye on your dog are your two best defenses against canine bloat.

You’re thinking about adding a second pet to your family? Congratulations! We think that’s a great idea, but we know you’ve probably got a few concerns about how to go about doing so. Here’s some answers to the questions we hear most often on this subject.

?I already have a male dog (or cat). Should a adopt another male or will the opposite sex get along better?

First of all, we assume the first pet is neutered, and if not, by all means do that before bringing in another pet. That simple “fixing” will solve many of the problems you’d otherwise encounter, such as males fighting with males or unintentional matings. Though the usual advice to get a second pet of the opposite sex, we’ve seen many same-sex second adoptions work well.

In some cases, it’s definitely a good idea to introduce a second pet that’s junior to the first pet. Younger pets are generally less assertive than adults, so you can keep the peace by bringing in a new animal that won’t start immediate challenges over who rules the household. The exception to that idea is when you give a home to a mild-mannered “senior citizen” dog or cat. Such animals are often happy just to have a safe and loving place to live out its life, even if there are other livelier pets in the household.

If you’re bringing in a new dog, many experts suggest the introduction should be made on “neutral’ territory, such as having both leashed dogs meet in a park. After they’ve had a chance to sniff and greet, then take both home. This way your first dog won’t feel so threatened by an intruder who’s moving in without warning. If you’re bringing in a second cat, we suggest keeping the newcomer confined in a room apart from the first animal for a while. Let the pets sniff and become aware of each other without allowing any wild chases at the outset. When you do let the new cat meet the previous cat or dog, there may be some growling or spitting. With time, most pets work things out on their own. We tell new adopters to expect a period of adjustment of at least two weeks before things feel normal.

First of all, don’t make a big fuss over the newcomer and ignore your previous pet. Instead, give equal attention or even a bit more to the first pet. Show that pet he’s still tops with you by feeding him first (you’ll have separate food dishes for your pets, of course) and greeting him first when you walk in. As time passes, your newcomer may be the more dominant one in the pet hierarchy , but the animals will figure that out on their own.

Before adopting a second pet, be sure you’ll be able to afford the extra expense. Even when spaying/neutering and first vaccinations have been taken care of prior to adoption, we know that the average cost of routine annual veterinary care for a pet is approximately $200. If you can afford an additional pet, then there’s just one last thing to consider: which of the many great animals in SAP’s care is the one for you?

It’s easy to take great pet photos, and we’d love to share yours by to printing your photo of a SAP pet you’ve adopted in our newsletter.

-Most cameras nowadays are “point and shoot,” meaning that the camera will automatically focus and produce a good picture if only you give it a chance. When taking pictures of your pet, there’s a few easy things to try.

1) Get down to the eye-level of the pet before shooting the photo. Taking a picture of the top of its head or its back doesn’t really tell us much about its personality.

2) Get close enough so that the image of the pet “fills the frame” of your viewfinder. If your camera has a zoom lens, use it, if not just move in closer yourself. Picturing kitty as a speck on the sofa while you're standing across the room may give us a good view of your room, but not much cat detail.

3) Pay attention to the background. Is your white dog sitting in the snow? Is your black cat on a black cushion? Move the pet or your own angle so that you have a contrasting background. Also watch out for background clutter, such as the telephone pole “growing” out of the top of the pet’s head or all those messy dishes on the counter that somehow end up in your cat’s photo.

4) Try to get a cute expression on the pet by making funny noises so that the pet looks at you inquisitively just before you snap the photo. If the pet is uncooperative and won’t hold still, instead of forcing it, just let it go and let it relax a bit. By keeping your camera ready, you may be able to catch it in a natural pose.

5) If using your flash for indoor photos, try to angle the pet so it isn’t looking directly at the camera in order to avoid the flash reflections in the eye that make them look like headlamps. If you’re taking photos outside in bright sunlight, turn on your flash and use it to “fill in” shadows on features such as eyesockets, long noses, ear folds etc.

6) Take lots of pictures! Having photos on hand is important if your pet is lost or stolen. But mostly take photos because the life of any pet is too short, and photos preserve your memories.

Our hope is that every dog might live in a house close to his family. He won’t be banished to the basement or garage, and definitely won’t be in solitary confinement tied out in the yard or a kennel run.

The downside of that ideal is that dogs, like children, can be messy and disruptive in the home. Here’s some ideas to make your house more “dog-friendly,” while making it easier for you to live with your pet.

Dirt Control: If you dog is allowed on the furniture, consider sofa throws or covers that can be whisked off when company’s coming and easily washed in the machine — this beats shampooing sofas and chairs frequently.

Face the fact that your dog will bring in dirt from the outdoors on his coat and feet. You might consider replacing your light colored carpets with something darker and neutral such as a deep neutral gray or anything that hides dirt. Replacing carpets with wood or tile floors is fashionable, though your dog may have slippery-footing problem at first. Don’t worry, he’ll adjust.

A lightweight, maneuverable vacuum cleaner will be used more often than that big heavy thing in your closet, so think about that if your dog sheds hair freely. For about $200 you can buy a powerful carpet shampoo machine which will pay for itself when you consider how often you might otherwise have to rent or hire carpet-care services.

There are lots of clean-up and odor-reducing products on the market, but this writer recommends Dow® Bathroom Cleaner to spray on and clean up almost any liquid or solid mess a dog can make on a floor.

Keep a dog brush and comb stashed near your telephone or TV chair. A daily coat comb out while you’re phoning or watching TV isn’t too bothersome and will help control shedding.

Some loose-lipped dogs drool, which gets messy when the dog shakes his head. You can buy bibs for this kind of dog, but long-term, its just something you’ll have to live with. Think about this next time you pick out a dog, especially something in the hound or mastiff families. “Snool,” a close relative to drool, is the marks the dog’s nose makes on windows. We love Windex®.

Play time: If you have dog toys scattered all over your living room floor, find a waste basket that fits your décor and stash it in a corner of the room as the dog’s “toy box.” Most dogs quickly learn where the toys are kept and delight in knocking over the toy box when they feel like playing. You get extra points if you can train your dog to pick up the toys and put them back in the basket.

Consider a “dog door” if you have a safely fenced yard. This eliminates the aggravation of responding to the dog who constantly wants to go in-and-out. But the dog will use the dog door in all kinds of weather, bringing in mud and snow, so be sure to install the door where you can also put down a carpet runner, mat or old towels for the dog to step onto.

Feeding time: You can get all sizes and shapes of food dishes to fit your dog’s needs. For dogs with long, dangling ears, try a narrow-topped dish so that the ears don’t get into the food. Spaniels or other breeds with long ears often wear “snoods,” with are adjustable head wraps that slip on and hold back the dog’s ears while eating.

You can buy raised or platform bowls, which some experts say are healthier and easier for tall dogs to use. Placemats under dog dishes also help keep things neat.

Some dogs are really messy drinkers, no matter what you do. Put their water dishes in the laundry room.

Accident/incident Prevention: We recommend using a dog crate for any animal who isn’t completely trustworthy when left alone in the home, and that means most puppies. Crates prevent destructive behavior such as chewing and home wrecking. Dogs usually don’t like to soil their crates, so keeping a puppy crated until you’re home to let him out is a great aid to housebreaking. When a dog is accustomed to a crate (and he will be, even if he complains at first), the crate becomes a safe haven or “den.” Folding metal or mesh crates are easily stored. The solid plastic “Air Line” or Vari-Kennels® come in many colors and can fit into a kitchen or bedroom — they can even be used as an end table.

If you’d like to confine your dog to part of your home, use baby gates to block doorways. In a larger area such as a laundry or utility room, you could also set up an “exercise pen” (called an “x-pen”), which is a roomy, foldable and portable pen that gives a pet room to move around more. Ask your pet-supply store about these if you’ve never seen them.

While the majority of puppies that Save-A-Pet places are wonderful mixed breed pups, we understand that some people prefer buying a dog of one of the nearly 150 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club. After all, you know exactly what you’ll be getting when you buy a purebred, right?

Actually, maybe not. There are quality purebreds and then there are some with problems due to bad breeding practices. If you’re shopping for a purebred puppy, considering its source is an important step.

The worst place to buy a purebred puppy is a pet shop. Stores dealing with purebred puppies as merchandise will sell a pup to anyone who can pay the asking price. Pet shops need to make a profit, so they can’t afford to discriminate between “good” homes and “bad” homes. And that’s the main reason reputable breeders refuse to sell their pups through pet shops.

Pet shops get their stock from sources that produce puppies for profit, often from “puppy mills” or local people who mate inferior specimens to sell at low cost. Pet shop owners are often unwilling or unable to produce the pedigrees, or the name, address and phone number of the actual breeder prior to purchase, so buyers can’t personally check the source.

Health guarantees offered by pet shops are the minimum prescribed by local law. Usually this is just a two-week “return or money-back” period demanded by the state “Lemon Law.” The sales staff may be unwilling or unable to discuss any genetic problems or temperament quirks the breed may be prone to. Pet shops offer AKC registrations as proof of “quality.” They don’t mention that the AKC accepts registrations without checking if the breeding stock is sound and true to type.

Prices at pet shops will be at the high end of the local range for each breed. After all, the breeder has to make a profit, the “middleman” who ships litters for wholesale resale has to make money, as does the pet shop operator. All that for a pup that may be just a generic specimen of the breed, and often is a serious departure from what the breed is supposed to be.

And finally the pet shop owner doesn’t care about the welfare of the pup after its purchase. If, after some time, you have a training or health problem with your pup, you’re on your own.

A second source of purebred pups is the casual or “backyard” breeders. These are folks who breed the family pet to any convenient pet of the same breed just so that they’ll have purebred pups. They have no concern or knowledge of genetics, bloodlines, or breed improvement. Rather they breed for the “fun,” or because its “good for the kids,” or because they could use some money.

Though their pet may be well-loved, it wasn’t x-rayed for hip dysplasia or checked for other genetic eye or heart problems that plague some breeds. The “breeder” may not even know about those problems. He offers no health guarantees beyond proof of inoculations. These puppy purveyors have little knowledge of their breed’s history or of its AKC Standard. They may claim this doesn’t matter for “just pets.”

You can often identify backyard breeders by the makeshift accommodations they raise their pups in. Likewise, though they may produce AKC papers or a “championship pedigree” as proof of quality, they don’t bother participating in their local or national breed clubs, nor do they exhibit their dogs to get an objective opinion of the quality of the breeding stock.

The prices asked by backyard breeders are usually at the low end of the local range for the breed. These breeders want to sell the pups rapidly, so they aren’t too fussy about buyers. The backyard breeder has no concern for the individual pup after its sale, nor for the breed’s future. These breeders don’t use the AKC’s Limited Registration,[1] nor do they mention a spay/neuter contract to guard against further breeding of substandard pets. If you can’t keep the puppy you buy from a backyard breeder, the usual solution is to take it to a dog pound or to sell it.

The best source for a purebred puppy is a reputable hobby breeder. These are people who spend enormous amounts of time and money on their dogs — so much that they struggle to “break even,” not to make a profit. However, they screen their buyers carefully and may refuse to sell to someone who can’t offer the pup an excellent lifelong home.

Reputable breeders love their breed and can discuss at length its background, uses, and ideal type. They will discuss with potential buyers the breed’s good points and disadvantages. They can explain how they planned their breeding program to emphasize specific qualities. They have their breeding stock x-rayed for hip dysplaysia or other genetic problems, and they can produce certification to prove their claims. If one of their dogs develops a proven genetic problem later in life, the breeder will replace or take back the dog, or help the owner cope with the problem.

The reputable breeder has a major investment in dog equipment such as puppy pens, crates, fenced yards, and grooming tables. He will encourage you to use a crate and may require a fenced yard.

The reputable breeder is often a member of a local or national kennel club. He exhibits his dogs as an objective test of how his stock measures up. This breeder will show you the litter and the dam in a sanitary environment. He can explain the difference between a “show pick” and a “pet pick,” and will guide the buyer in choosing the right pup.

This breeder’s prices will be at the high end of the local range. That price won’t begin to reflect all that’s been invested in the pups. After purchase, the breeder will help you with grooming or training problems. He will take back your dog if you can’t keep it — he definitely doesn’t want to see it “disposed of” inappropriately. This breeder sells his pets with limited AKC Registrations and spay/neuter contracts so that buyers will not dabble in indiscriminate breeding. This breeder’s reputation depends on your satisfaction.

So how do you find the best breeders? If you have Internet access, try searching for information on your breed. Many breeds have web sites. Also, you can look up the American Kennel Club at www.akc.org to see if the breed you’re interested in has links on that big site.

If you don’t have a computer to help in your search, call the American Kennel Club at (919) 233-9767. Ask them to refer you to the contact person, usually the corresponding secretary, of “your” breed’s parent (or main national) club. Many breed clubs offer lists of member breeders around the country. If you know of AKC conformation dog shows being held in your area, plan on attending in the hopes of meeting some exhibitors who can help you in your search.

How do you know if any breeder is reputable? Do your research, learn about a breed in advance, then see if the breeder measures up.

[1] The American Kennel Club’s Limited Registration means that a pet dog is fully registered, but any offspring of that dog will not be eligible for AKC Registration. This discourages casual, for-profit breeding of pets.